Collio DOC: Discovering the Elegance of Friuli’s Hidden Gem
Italian wines continue to amaze with their diversity and unique native grapes that create distinctive nuances. As an Italian wine enthusiast, I often ponder the insightful words of a professor who described Italy as the “newest-oldest” producer of wine – a fitting definition, especially when rediscovering a region that I thought I knew, Friuli Venezia Giulia, only to find there is so much more to explore.
Recently, I had the pleasure of diving deep into the world of Collio DOC at a tasting hosted at Corkbuzz Wine Bar in Manhattan. This hidden gem of a wine region lies in the northeastern corner of Italy, bordering Slovenia. Little did I know that Collio DOC is renowned for its elegant, crisp, and mineral-driven white wines. As I tasted through the selection, I couldn’t help but wonder, “Where have you been all this time, Collio?”
Geographical Significance
The wine region of Collio, situated in Friuli Venezia Giulia, is a half-moon of sunny slopes located in the province of Gorizia, enclosed between the rivers Judrio and Isonzo. This unique microclimate is shaped by the influence of the Adriatic Sea and the Julian Alps, which moderate temperatures and provide shelter from harsh weather. The soil, known as “Ponca,” is a distinctive mix of marl and sandstone, lending a unique minerality to the wines.
This combination of factors creates ideal conditions for a diverse array of grape varieties to thrive, including both white and red grapes. The white grapes flourish, with Friulano (also known as Sauvignonasse), Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Bianco all finding a home in Collio’s vineyards. The red grapes, though less prominent, include Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Grape Varietals and Winemaking
Collio is best known for its captivating white wines, characterized by their elegance, complexity, and refreshing acidity. The true essence of the territory is embodied in the Collio Bianco, a characteristic blend that allows each winery to express its own interpretation of the terroir and highlight the features of the region.
The Collio Bianco blend can include one or more white grape varieties, with the exception of the aromatic Müller Thurgau and Traminer aromatico, which are limited to a maximum of 15% of the total. Each Collio Bianco is a unique expression, showcasing the winemaker’s skill and the region’s diverse viticultural heritage.
Among the single-varietal wines, the local Friulano (Sauvignonasse) is a shining star, producing aromatic wines with notes of citrus, herbs, and a distinct minerality. Ribolla Gialla offers a delicate floral aroma and crisp acidity, while Pinot Grigio from Collio often displays more depth and complexity than its counterparts from other regions, with pear, apple, and almond notes. The Pinot Bianco thrives in this terroir, yielding wines with a perfect balance of fruit and acidity, often exhibiting green apple, citrus blossom, and subtle almond nuances.
Although less common than the white varieties, Sauvignon Blanc from Collio presents a vibrant expression, with characteristic grassy notes, gooseberry flavors, and refreshing minerality.
The production of red wines in Collio DOC features mainly noble grapes, with Merlot being the most widely planted. Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are also grown and often blended with Merlot to add structure and complexity. These red wines undergo aging in oak, resulting in a well-rounded and age-worthy expression.
Appellation and Regulations
Collio DOC is the third oldest DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) in Italy, established in 1968. This prestigious appellation ensures strict quality control and adherence to winemaking standards, allowing the region’s unique terroir and viticultural traditions to shine.
The Collio DOC production regulations permit 18 official wines, with the vast majority being single-varietal expressions (12 white and 4 red), as well as two blended cuvées: Collio Bianco and Collio Rosso. Within the broader DOC, there are also recognized sub-zones, such as Oslavia, Plessiva, Pradis, and Zegla, which the locals proudly liken to Crus in Burgundy.
Enological Excellence
The wines of Collio have garnered significant international acclaim, with producers earning awards and accolades that speak to the region’s enological excellence. One such example is the renowned Grappa Nonino, which was voted the best distillery in the world in 2019 by Wine Enthusiast. This family-owned distillery, situated just outside the Collio region, is deeply ingrained in the area’s DNA, producing some of Italy’s finest grappa and liqueurs.
Beyond the prestigious awards, the wineries of Collio are also embracing sustainable practices, demonstrating their commitment to environmentally-friendly viticulture and winemaking. This holistic approach to grape growing and wine production further enhances the quality and authenticity of the region’s offerings.
Exploring Collio’s Cellar Doors
For wine enthusiasts seeking to discover the hidden gems of Italian wine, I highly recommend exploring the wines of Collio. The region’s artisanal producers welcome visitors to their cellars, offering the opportunity to delve into the unique character of these wines, shaped by the distinct terroir and winemaking traditions.
During my tasting at Corkbuzz, I couldn’t help but imagine pairing these Collio wines with the flavors of the Mediterranean diet. The wines’ refreshing acidity and pronounced minerality make them the perfect companions to a wide range of seafood, from sea bass and robalo to sushi. Equally, their versatility extends to dishes like roasted chicken, spinach al olio, and garlic-infused creations, showcasing the harmonious synergy between Collio’s wines and the regional cuisine.
As I delved deeper into the Collio DOC, I was struck by the region’s captivating blend of history, terroir, and winemaking excellence. It is a hidden gem that deserves to be discovered, with its elegant, crisp, and mineral-driven whites and well-structured reds offering a unique and rewarding experience for wine enthusiasts. I encourage you to explore the wines of Collio and embark on a journey of oenological discovery in this enchanting corner of Friuli Venezia Giulia.