The earth is alive, humming and hiccuping with heat. In the Azores archipelago, where volcanoes carved islands from the collision of tectonic plates, the ground boils and springs bubble, providing a natural oven for a unique culinary tradition – the Cozida das Caldeiras, or Furnas Stew.
Volcanic Terroir
The largest of the Azores islands, São Miguel, is home to the town of Furnas, a steaming hot spot where fumaroles, geysers, and caldeiras (mineral-rich hot springs) dot the landscape. The ground’s geothermal energy powers a culinary ritual that has been perfected over generations. Local cooks harness the earth’s heat to slowly simmer a hearty stew, layering an assortment of meats, sausages, and vegetables in cast-iron pots before submerging them in the volcanic craters.
This “pot-au-feu of the Azores” begins with a base of chicken, blood sausages (morcela), pork ribs, bacon, and pork belly. The meat is nestled between beds of cabbage, carrots, potatoes, and garlic, creating a bountiful cross-section of local ingredients. With no added water or stock, the stew cooks solely in the steam released by the ingredients, extracting their natural juices and building a rich, savory broth.
The volcanic heat keeps the pots simmering for 6-8 hours, patiently tenderizing the meats and vegetables. Park attendants carefully lower the sealed containers into the caldeira craters, which reach temperatures between 64-96°C (147-205°F), and then retrieve the finished stew in the afternoon. This unhurried, geothermal cooking process allows the flavors to meld and the textures to soften, transforming humble ingredients into a sublime, one-pot celebration of the land.
Lessons from the Earth
The Furnas Stew is more than just a regional specialty – it’s a testament to the dynamic relationship between humans and the Earth’s natural systems. As writer L. Sasha Gora observes, “Eating, in other words, is always ecological, and cooking is an environmental act.” By harnessing the volcano’s persistent heat, the people of Furnas have devised a culinary practice that honors the rhythms and resources of their volcanic landscape.
This mindful approach to food preparation is echoed in Gora’s concept of “culinary scores” – recipes that are not mere instructions, but rather scripts to be interpreted and performed. The Furnas Stew, with its emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients and reliance on the earth’s own heating system, can be seen as a “culinary formula” that celebrates the interconnectedness of food, culture, and environment.
Beyond the Azores, other regions are exploring similar ways of embracing their unique geographies and natural energy sources. On Fogo Island, off the coast of Newfoundland, the writer finds herself learning to make fire the old-fashioned way – a skill that connects her to the island’s volcanic origins. And in C. Pam Zhang’s novel “Land of Milk and Honey,” the characters sculpt decadent, gourmet meals that evoke the “molten center of the earth,” even as the world around them crumbles.
These stories underscore the profound ways in which the earth shapes our culinary traditions and experiences. As we grapple with the realities of a warming planet, the Furnas Stew and other place-based cooking methods offer valuable lessons in how to nourish ourselves in harmony with the natural world. By attuning to the rhythms and resources of our local environments, we can develop a more intimate, ecological awareness of the origins of our food.
Seasonal Abundance
The Furnas Stew is but one example of how the Azores archipelago’s distinct geography and climate influence the region’s culinary offerings. Beyond the volcanic heat, the islands’ lush, green landscapes and temperate, maritime weather patterns foster an abundance of seasonal produce and wild-foraged ingredients.
Throughout the year, the Azores’ volcanic soil, consistent rainfall, and moderate temperatures support a diverse array of native flora. In the spring, the islands burst with wildflowers, from vibrant azaleas and hydrangeas to delicate orchids and ferns. Many of these botanical treasures, such as melissa (lemon balm) and rubus (blackberry), find their way into local teas, jams, and even the Furnas Stew itself.
As summer arrives, the Azores’ unique microclimate allows for the cultivation of unexpected crops, like pineapples growing in greenhouses. The regional cuisine celebrates this bounty, incorporating fresh, seasonal produce into everything from hearty stews to light, vibrant salads. And in the fall, the islands’ persistent rains nourish a new wave of mushrooms, berries, and other foraged delicacies.
Throughout the seasons, the Azorean people, like the Furnas cooks, demonstrate a deep appreciation for the rhythms and resources of their volcanic home. By respecting the land’s natural cycles and harnessing its geothermal energy, they have developed a rich, place-based culinary tradition that serves as a model for sustainable, ecological eating.
Synergistic Pairings
Just as the Furnas Stew is a harmonious collaboration between the earth’s heat and local ingredients, the wines of the Azores also reflect a profound synergy with their volcanic terroir. The region’s cool, maritime climate and mineral-rich soils produce distinctive, “persistent” wines that both complement and enhance the flavors of Azorean cuisine.
One such pairing is the Furnas Stew with a glass of Verdelho, a crisp, aromatic white wine varietal that thrives in the Azores’ unique growing conditions. The wine’s bright acidity and subtle, herbal notes cut through the stew’s rich, savory flavors, while its persistent minerality echoes the dish’s volcanic origins. Similarly, a robust red like Terrantez do Pico can stand up to the Furnas Stew’s hearty, umami-forward profile, its bold tannins and dark fruit notes balancing the meal’s earthy, umami-rich character.
Beyond these classic pairings, the Azores’ diverse wine offerings provide ample opportunities for culinary exploration. Vibrant, fragrant rosés made from native grape varieties like Arinto dos Açores can complement lighter, springtime fare, while late-harvest dessert wines made from the region’s indigenous Verdelho grapes offer a decadent finish to a meal.
By celebrating the Azores’ unique, place-based wines alongside its iconic Furnas Stew and other local specialties, the Wine Garden Inn invites guests to engage in a deeper, more holistic understanding of the islands’ culinary heritage. Through these synergistic pairings, visitors can savor the full expression of the Azores’ volcanic terroir, discovering how the land’s natural elements and human traditions converge to create a truly transcendent dining experience.